In Search of America’s Best Sushi

My introduction to sushi was at a party back in the 1990s and did not go well. A tray was going around that looked like innocent snacks and I grabbed and gulped one. Instantly my brain’s alarm system went off saying, “This tastes like crap!” I wouldn’t even consider eating sushi for several years after that unfortunate encounter let alone think to embark on a search of America’s best sushi.

My dislike for sushi changed shortly after meeting my wife. She was born in Japan and knew quality sushi. When it was time to go meet her parents for the first time she said we’d go out for sushi and I would be guided throughout the meal to see how good sushi can be.

I was taken to their favorite Japanese restaurant and given the sushi tour that night. I tried just about everything, toro, hamachi, sake, blue fin tuna, and a few more. There was a vast difference between this freshly made, high-quality sushi than the icky fish that made the rounds at the party where I first tasted sushi.

Sushi Sake specials and sushi

My wife’s family had turned the tide, and I was starting to think sushi could be worthy. Just after we were married we traveled to Japan to meet the rest of her family. During that first trip to Japan, I saw the cherry blossoms blooming in gay profusion. We walked the area near the Emperor’s Palace and saw crowds of locals picnicking under the cherry trees eating, drinking, and being merry. I was also given an extensive food tour of Japan, including dining at three sushi restaurants. I learned in Japan, it’s not common to find the trendy hand rolls found in the U.S. sushi restaurants. When I asked for a spicy tuna roll with jalapeño the look on the sushi chef’s eyes was, “You want what!” My wife told me they don’t use jalapeños in Japan. Instead, they tend to serve a purer form of sushi.

Presentation is important

To achieve eye appeal is crucial by displaying colorful sushi on a well-chosen decorative plate. In Japan fresh fish takes center stage with a backdrop of beautiful dishes. Small glasses of beer or sake are poured to accompany the meal. It’s a match made in food heaven: fresh fish, beautiful dinnerware, sake, and beer.

Sushi at Tobi Sushi in Kanazawa Japan

After that trip to Japan, sushi was never the same. No matter how hard I tried to locate sushi as good as I had in Japan, most attempts fell short. I’ve spent the last 20 years since that first visit to Japan looking for the best sushi in U.S. restaurants. This isn’t easy because few Americans really know good sushi and often accept poor quality fish. This allows some restaurants to survive longer than possible if most diners knew the difference between good and bad sushi. One of the tricks to make mediocre sushi seem better is to dress it up. Smeared in Sri Racha, bejeweled with jalapeños, aioli, and other cover-up additions, American sushi is a mishmash of flavors that can hide lesser quality fish.

And the winner is…

The clear winner in all my searching for America’s best sushi is in Richardson Texas. The same sushi chef (Sodasan) who changed my mind back in 1996 has been running his own restaurant since 1997, called Sushi Sake. On a recent visit in December of 2017, my wife’s parents took us out for sushi. We were seated at the sushi bar right in front of the chef and owner, Sodasan. What followed was pure sushi greatness.

Sodasan at Sushi Sake in Richardson Texas

After being seated I glanced at the specials blackboard behind Sodasan. I saw Japanese King Mackerel and goldeye snapper. Sodasan has fresh fish flown in most days from Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Market. What impresses me is the prices are very reasonable at Sushi Sake. Two people can have a fantastic dinner with sake or beer for under $100, a bit more if you order the higher quality fish like fatty tuna. While not a bargain to most, I think this is a great price given that they serve probably the best sushi in America for less than $100 per person.

For starters

First up on our tour of Japanese fare was the delicious house salad. The fragrant sesame-ginger dressing highlights the crisp lettuce; the savory flavors open up the palate getting ready for the wave of sushi to follow. I always order something other than sushi to mix it up. On this night Sodasan had a stuffed green-lipped mussel special. The mussel was stuffed with chopped bits of mussel meat, green onions, and topped with tobiko then served on the half shell. It was a non-traditional dish, but delicious.

stuffed green-lip mussels

For the first sushi course, we split a dragon roll. Sodasan’s version of this Japanese classic had unagi and tempura shrimp inside. With a slight smear of oyster sauce, this crispy-studded roll got us off to a good start. I paired it with a special sake served hot. For our love of unagi we moved on to a four-piece serving of unagi sushi. Elongated fillets of sauced unagi came on a sea-green plate for our dining pleasure. Finding high-quality unagi is tough, especially in America. I’ve eaten unagi all over Japan and could tell this was the quality fish.

Unagi dragon roll

It was time to transition to the cold sushi. I ordered my favorite, salmon (sake), and hamachi for a trial run. Both were so fresh and delicious it was hard to pick a favorite. The salmon was so rich it seemed like it had been marinated in butter. Not fishy tasting salmon, but a silky smooth flavor like unsweetened ice cream with a hint of sea.

A favorite roll

I saw a rainbow roll being prepared by one of the other sushi chefs and decided to order one for my wife and I. It was fun to watch Sodasan, a true sushi master, prepare the colorful roll. Quick, decisive knife strokes spoke of decades handling razor-sharp blades. In five minutes time, we had a gorgeous cylindrical feast laid before us. Salmon, tuna, and Hamachi gave the roll color, while an inserted barrier of wasabi and seaweed parted fish from rice. It was only through great self-control I didn’t order another rainbow roll this was so delicious.

Rainbow roll at
Sushi Sake

My father-in-law was getting a bit carried away and kept sharing some of his menu choices with us, and I was filling up fast. Time was running out and I finished with another piece of sake and hamachi for good measure. When it was over, I told my wife, “This is as good as sushi gets in America.” She agreed. I had heard that Sushi Sake was named the best sushi restaurant in American and asked Sodasan. He confirmed that in 2002, Zagat had awarded Sushi Sake with the coveted Best Sushi award. They haven’t lost a thing in all these years since that rating and I always look forward to eating at Sushi Sake when visiting the Dallas area.

Yellowtail and salmon at Sushi Sake

I’m sure there are other great sushi restaurants out there; some of which probably cost an arm-and-a-leg. I continue to try new sushi restaurants but mostly, would be contenders fall flat when compared to Sushi Sake. Judging from the packed house I see on every visit to Sushi Sake, Sodasan delivers what his customers want.

If you go, be sure and arrive early as Sushi Sake doesn’t take reservations. On some nights, especially Friday and Saturday, the wait is well over an hour. If you’re looking for great sushi, this humble family-run restaurant will deliver America’s best sushi.

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