This was my eighth trip to Japan, but only the second one in winter. The country is full of hot springs resorts and hotels to warm up with making it quite tolerable. One of my favorite memories of this trip was Unagi in Narita City and walking the trail of seven hot springs in Atami. Come with me on a trip to these special places.
After tea it was opening time at Kawatoyo Honten a restaurant over 100 years old serving mostly eel, otherwise known as Unagi. We got in without waiting thanks to our early arrival at 10:10 am. I marveled at the skill watching the guy filleting the eels near the front of the restaurant on a low table. I just knew this was going to be good, and it was.
Before sitting down I asked the guy cooking the eel if I could take his picture, and I think he said yes. He was grilling up a smoke screen and got me craving that eel dish right now.
Finally after being seated, choosing our menu items and getting warm by the foot heaters under our table the moment arrived and there in front of us was the best looking Unagi, clear soup and side of pickles a foodie could ask for.
Our Narita adventure was over and the next stop was Tokyo. We walked back to the train station to start the journey to Tokyo.
Two days later we took the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Atami by the sea. I had been there before but liked it so much I wanted a refresher course in hot springs resort towns Japanese style. When we got off at the Atami train station these locals and tourists were soaking their feet in the hot springs pool right in front of the station! Where else you going to find that?
On the trail of seven springs we came to this steamer of a hot spring. I put my hand in the plume and wow was it hot! You could cook meat on a skewer over that one and in ancient times I bet they did.
Later that day we went to the local temple to see the 2,000 year old Camphor tree then walked down hill all the way to the sea on a blue sky day. We walked the pathway along the ocean until we came to a familiar statue.
The story goes that the man (Koyo Ozaki, a famous writer)kicking the woman was dumped by her when another suitor lured her away by a gleaming diamond. She later repented but it was too late and he said, “You were blinded by diamonds.” now a famous saying in Japan. Later on while walking the oceanfront walkway I shot some pictures of the pretty tiled artwork gracing our pathway.
The next and last day in Atami we ate ramen noodle soup, one of my favorite things to eat while visiting Japan. Ichiban restaurant was packed minutes after opening and we were happy to have a table. It was as good as I remembered and set the bar high for any future ramen.
Ichiban restaurant ramen
With our time over in Atami we said farewell and headed to Hakone for more hot springs fun. The trip almost half over was already looking like one of the best ever. I was feeling very grateful.
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Karen Padilla says
Beautiful photos. Thanks for sharing.
Kurt Jacobson says
You are welcome!
Connie Pearson says
I like it! But, tell me. What is the closest taste to eel that you can describe for me? Is it chewy? Fishy? Flavorful?
You captured some great photos. Good job, Kurt.
Kurt says
It’s a mild flavor enhanced by a slightly sweet soy sauce based baste. While not fishy you know you are eating fish and the texture is soft without being mushy.
Thanks for reading and commenting!
Penny says
I hate going places in winter, but after reading your article, I could be persuaded to change my mind
Kurt says
It does help when you know there are hot springs baths waiting.